dimanche 13 novembre 2011

Sousse: Things to Do




Visit the Great Mosque

Tickets from the small booth opposite the entrance (you may have to wait for the man to notice you and come strolling over). They sell tickets for the Ribat there too.

You'll need to cover shoulder sand knees to visit; jellabas can be borrowed.

The Great Mosque dates from the 9th century AD, like that Great Mosque in Kairouan. But it's simpler in form, with only and inscription which runs around the inner courtyard wall. You can't go inside the prayer hall, but the doors are left open.

The muezzin used to call from a domed 'kiosk', rather than a minaret. It dates from the 11th century, and is accessed (not by the public) by a set of unrailed stone steps (in Arabic style).
You might wonder why the prayer hall carpet is pulled up against the pillars. It's simple: people come to the prayer hall to sit and study, as well as to worship. They often sit with their backs against the pillars,and the carpet just makes it a bit more comfortable.




The amphitheatre of El Djem
It's a very big and in good shape amphitheatre. It lies in a small village in the desert.
You have to pay a entrance fee and extra money when you want to make pictures.
You can climb in the arena and make beautiful pictures. You can also take a look in the dungeons.

It's an hour drive (taxi) from the center of sousse.
Wander the medina

It's not small, Sousse's medina. But it's a fascinating place to just wander around. There's even a red-light district in its north , with only one entrance...not that I even attempted to go there!

Apart from the Great Mosque and the Ribat, you can also visit the Kasbah (still closed for renovations when I went) which has a museum with some nice Roman mosaics and a couple of 'house' museums (neither of which I managed to find on my shortish visit in extreme heat).

And there's the souk, of course. Quite a big one, with shops selling everything you could possibly want. I didn't find it a hassle, but I rarely do get hassled; your experience might be different. Quite a lot of the shops selling tourist-aimed items are 'prix fixe' (fixed price) so if you don't fancy haggling you can still find things to buy.

I didn't get lost in the souk or the medina, but I did have a good map with me. Without, it would have been difficult to get my bearings. It's quite difficult to work out where you are, as so few of the meandering roads and alleyways have signs (most are in Arabic anyway) and so many streets are covered (with goods, or with roofs, or with shades of some type). The latter also makes it more difficult to spot older architecture, although I managed to see one or two things.

When you've explored the souk just spend some time wandering the medina streets. Keep your eyes open for Roman columns..they are dotted about everywhere, evidence of Sousse's ancient past. And watch out for studded doors and detailed doorways too. Lots of people seem to live in the medina, so there's plenty of evidence of day-to-day life to be seen.....people0watching is always fascinating.
Visit the Ribat
You can buy tickets from the kiosk opposite the Great Mosque, or from the entrance to the Ribat itself. You'll need to pay extra to take photos (1 dinar in July 2010).

Dating from 821, the Ribat served as both a defensive post and lookout for a special group of what might be termed 'warrior religious'. When not at the military duties these men lived, studied and prayed within the ribat (the only communal room is the prayer hall). Small cells surround and open onto the central courtyard, one of which holds a well (still functioning, I think, judging by the modern rope).

The entrance to the ribat has several rather impressive Roman columns and capitals, and one of the cells also held random segments and chunks of inscribed stone (the latter not Roman).

Sousse ribat was part of a chain which allowed messages to travel from Egypt to Morocco overnight.......a pretty impressive feat.

There are excellent views across the medina and towards the sea from its upper floors. Well worth visiting.
Two day safari - You can't miss it!


The best thing you can do is book the two day safari. I don't like travelling on a bus for hours, but it was worth it. We were lucky to have a very knowledgeable and enthusiastic host who took the trouble to point out all the places of interest and someone who knew the history and culture of the country.

El Jem was a highlight and can't be missed. Camel riding in the Sahara and watching the sunset was superb. Visting the oasis and the banana trees was an experience, including a 78 year old man climbing a palm tree barefoot, and demonstrating that he didnt need to hold onto the tree, by waving his arms, was a little bazarre.

Jeep ride into the mountains, walking to a waterfall, visiting the set of 'Star Wars', hotel accommodation, meals etc etc - all for approx. £130 per person.

You can book through your hotel or probably local tour agents in Sousse.
Be warned - you have two early morning starts, but it's worth it!



Port El Kantaoui - Catamaran

Sailing out of the harbour in a catamaran feels good. For the first 20 minutes or so, the engine is running, and then the sail is hoisted and it's amazing. The two guys running the show were friendly and you felt safe on the boat. No life-jackets, but this is Tunisia.

There were four of us, and we did a fine bit of bartering - £20 for a few hours out in the ocean. Ok it was in May 2010, maybe in high season when more tourists around, higher prices can be demanded.

A great way to relax. Until the crew decided it was 'soaking time'. Four sun-bathing, chilled out Brits find the sea water being thrown over you. (catamarans can be bounced over the water, and the result is you get wet). Don't get me wrong, this isn't a complaint, it was great fun.



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